Maureen’s Blab and Blog

I am now a day behind on blogging, because the time seems to fly by here! Between running from one show to the next, trying to catch a meal here and there, and taking a much needed break now and then, the day is gone.BREAKING NEWS…I am definitely confirmed to attend the finale of this season’s Project Runway!!!  I am  beyond excited as I am a big fan of the show!Sunday was Tracey Reese to start the day.  She is such a great designer in part because she designs for real women.  Her styles were so feminine!  Andre Leon Talley from Vogue, Ana Ortiz from “Ugly Betty” and singer Brandy were all front row occupants.  Again, we saw a lot of flesh tones and chiffon, wide leg pants and some cute trench coats.  Soft peach was a key color for this show.  There were also some watercolor prints that I thought were pretty.  Tracey showed some raspberry, purple and kelly green in some of her designs.  I thought this was a very accessible collection.   Herve Leger was the next show and Maria Sharipova,  Joy Bryant,  Michelle Trachtenberg were front row along with some other minor celebs that I am too old to know about!  This was a very full show.  I was not that familiar with this line and I was really surprised by it.  This is a line that is made for the very thin, very tall and very beautiful.  Max Azria designs for this line and he has kept the line true to it’s origins.  The dresses were incredibly short, architectural and form fitting.  They are constructed with elastic panels (or so it seemed) and layered to form the dress.  There were varying shades of gray, along with orange formed into both vertical and horizontal bands of color.  The effect was really striking.  The evening looks were also beautiful and the show ended with what seemed to be bathing suits that wrapped around these beautiful models, although one dunk in a pool or ocean might render them completely ineffective! Tibi was next and so far the collection I liked the least.  This show looked like a throwback to the 80′s.  Very severe padded shoulders and colors that were so saturated that they seemed comic almost.  There were harem pants and lots of pleating.  This was disturbing because if something looks voluminous on a model, what about the rest of us!  There was a few Asian inspired dresses that I liked and the use of a cummerbund style belt in some of the looks was appealing.  Overall, not my favorite show.I had a close brush with Eva Longoria as she was in the tents introducing a new line of M&Ms.  I also passed Nina Garcia, judge from Project Runway, on my way out of the tents.The fun continues here in New York… stay tuned  

I knew it was coming and this year I was ready!  Apparently, there were 3 different hurricanes moving up the east coast and converging on Saturday.  It started out overcast and went downhill from there.  Rain wind and lots of deep puddles.  The plan was to stay away from the tents  for the day, and do something non-fashion related…oh well.

I had read about the museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) and really wanted to go there.  There were 2 incredible exhibits that really exceeded my expectations.  Arbitors of Style: Women at the forefront of Fashion was the first one and really an incredible collection of clothing from the 1850′s to present day designers like Dior and YSL.  I love looking at collections of iconic garments that really represent an art form in my opinion.  The second exhibit was called Gothic: Dark Glamour, and had just opened the day before.  Unfortunately, we just missed the opening reception the night before we arrived in N.Y.  This was also a great exhibit as it examined the influence of gothic undertones on fashion.  This started with “mourning” dresses and moved all the way up to designers like Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and others.  This is an impressive museum and it is free!

Broadway beckoned, so the night’s activity was to see “Legally Blonde”.  Navigating Times Square in the pouring rain on a Saturday night was a sight to behold.  The theaters were packed.  Apparently there was an MTV reality show called “Search for Elle Woods”, that had aired.  The premise being that young women from all over the country auditioned to be the next lead in the broadway show.  A woman named Bailey Hanks won the part in front of a national audience and boy, can she sing!  My favorite number was “Gay or European?”–you have to see this!  The show was funny, the music high-energy and the costumes pink.  A big 2 thumbs up from this critic!

A late dinner at highly recommended Insieme followed the show.  I love being in a city where you sit down for dinner at 11 pm.  The city that never sleeps indeed!

Sunday’s shows include Tracey Reece, Herve Leger (by Max Azria) and Tibi.  More coming, stay tuned.

Talk about hitting the ground running…arrived yesterday morning on the red-eye, groggy and a little disoriented.  After a quick nap (way too short) I headed over to the tents to make my first show at 10 am.  It felt familiar and electric all at the same time!  Lots of fashionista and wannabe milling about ready for the action to begin!

BCBG Max Azria was first on the list.  This was a pretty popular show to attend.  They had chairs in the middle of the runway facing each direction.  I would imagine that it felt like you were part of the show.  The famed Anna Wintour, Editor of Vogue (purported to be the inspiration for the Meryl Streep character in “Devil Wears Prada”) was front row with her beautiful banged bob haircut and large sunglasses.  Also spotted was Vivica A. Fox, Nigel Barker, judge from America’s next top model, and some past contestants from Project Runway.

The show started with a very muted palette of grays, taupes and tans.  The fabrics were jersey and the main construction was draping.  The dresses were very short and bare, as one would expect from runway-worthy clothing.  After the more somber colors came some dresses in very bright melon, raspberry, blueberry and teal.  Forget wearing a bra with any of these beautiful creations!

Next was a show by Rubin Singer ( more on him later).  I was very surprised by this collection…in a good way.  His creations were the very opposite of BCBG.  His dresses were very architectural and made with more structured fabrics like satin.  He used an abundance of black and white stripes and polka dots, together and separately.  He used very constructed details like super wide lapels in his jackets and dresses along with very dramatic collars.  I thought that his clothing was very wearable and appropriate  for the New York or San Francisco markets.

After a short break and some unpacking, I set back off for the Erin Fetherston show.  Erin is a Piedmont native and Cal Berkeley alumni.  After graduation, she set off for Paris and lived and worked there to hone her design skills.  She seems to be a current media darling and designs for many of the red carpet celebs. 

Much to my 10 year old daughter’s delight, Emma Roberts (niece of Julia and daughter of Eric) was the much photographed celebrity du jour.  She was front and center for this show.  Fethereston’s designs were uber feminine.  She used a lot of chiffon in creating very flowy and ethereal pieces.  Her colors were very muted peach, tans and beiges.  She used sequins very beautifully in her wide leg trousers and sheath tops.  Her gowns flowed away from the body with exaggerated “poufs” and gathers around the mid-section and bottoms.  I really like seeing a collection that was so ”girly” and wearable at the same time.

The last show of the day was San Francisco’s own Academy of Art University MFA student show.  Don’t be fooled by the “student” moniker..these people are TALENTED.  There were 11 collections, including 3 menswear.  There was textile designs, and Missoni-inspired knitwear.  Each of the collections was unique and wearable in its own way.  Oakland resident, Anne Jones, collaborated with textile designer and student, Michelle Clarke on a wonderful collection.  They used very vibrant blue hues with oversize sequins that almost looked like colored glass!  Their collection was very evening  with a microfiber dress, jacket and skirt along with grey silk pants and a pink printed sequined dress.  Anne and Michelle did a wonderful job of merging interesting textiles and cutting edge fashion.  AAU just launched their new magazine called “180″ referring to the street number of the fashion school.  There was a copy on every seat…

It’s a rainy day today (Saturday) in Manhattan and museums and possibly a show are on the agenda.  More to come… stay tuned!

Is it true what they say about hemlines rising and falling with the stock market?  If it is true, at this point we should all be wearing floor length skirts.  It’s been a widely held belief in the fashion industry that hemlines drop as the market drops and this fall, they’re dropping and rising all at the same time!  What’s a fashionista to do?

Let’s start with the hot colors of the season.  Pantone, the authority on color, names blue iris as their color of the year for 2008.  In addition, berry colors are very popular this fall season.  Already the stores are brimming with raspberry colored clothing, handbags and shoes.  Cooler shades of blue, green and purple are also showing up as well as subtler variations of red, orange and yellow.  Warmer autumn hues like chocolate, brown and steel grays are also big.

Leather jackets are a “must have” item this fall.  Styles are very tailored with minimal detailing.  Think of this as a substitute for a blazer.  Leather jackets can be dressed up or down and are perfect for our bay area microclimates.  Try a leather jacket in brown instead of black for a sophisticated change.

Another HUGE trend is lace.  Every variation of lace is used in this falls styles.  Lace dresses and tops, even handbags and shoes are lace covered.  It seems that every designer is doing this treatment.  You’ve heard the term “leather and lace”?  This is the season to pair the two and make it work.

Working off the lace trend, romantic tops are making waves for fall.  You’ll see them in lace, of course, as well as ruffled pleated, pin tucked and flounced versions.  They are sleeveless, long sleeved and everything in between.  You can wear these with a suit or a pair of jeans, whatever your mood.  You can find them in cotton, organza, silk or satin.

Pants are one category where anything goes this season.  Pants are full cut, high waisted, wide legged, skinny, cropped and even HAREM pants are showing up.  The beauty of this is that no matter what your figure type, there is a pant style to suit you.  Skirts are also having an identity crisis.  Skirts are longer, to be sure, and they are fuller as well.  Tailored pencil skirts are in, as are the dirndl and A line.  So many choices, oh my!

Layering is one way you can make your clothing dollar go further.  Take that cute summer dress, and layer a long, thin knit cardigan, top with a thin belt, and Viola!  You’ll look like you stepped off the pages of Vogue magazine.  Chunkier sweaters are also important this season.  Like leather jackets, sweaters can be a great substitute for a jacket.  There are great versions of both thin and chunky sweaters everywhere from H & M to Barney’s.

Shoes and accessories are not to be forgotten this season.  Heels are high, and so is the vamp.  It’s almost like the cold weather version of the gladiator sandal.  The foot is very covered up in this type of shoe, which might help counter balance the height!  Boots are continuing to be a great fall investment, and I’m happy to report that there are lots of flat to moderate heeled boots.  I think that Aerosoles does a great job with their boots, they are comfortable and affordable, a winning combination.

Some handbags are staying neutral this season, while others are going the “berry” opposite.  It’s nice to see some color, so I am supporting a little boost of color via your handbag.  Keep in mind that I am carrying a bright yellow bag right now.  Speaking of bright colors, hosiery is positively popping with color.  Bright colored tights are seen in all of the fashion magazines, but it’s too soon to tell whether anyone will wear electric blue tights with a gray or black skirt, stay tuned.  Even Chanel is showing a two- toned tight, with the front half black and the back half tan.  I think it’s for those of us who just can’t make up our minds…

Lastly, statement jewelry is really a hot commodity this season.  Just because you can’t afford the real thing, doesn’t mean you can’t wear some bling.  Jewelry is big and overstated, even on some of these waif-like models.  My only warning is to keep the jewelry in scale with your body size and shape.

New York state of mind…I will be heading off to New York Fashion Week starting on Sept. 5th, for a fun filled week of spring 2008 fashions. Confirmed tickets so far are Piedmont’s own Erin Fetherston, The Academy of Art University (the ONLY student show in the tents), Tibi, Catherine Malandrino, Luca Luca, Betsey Johnson, Reem Acra and more as the shows approach.  Stay tuned as I may be invited to see the Finale show of Project Runway’s three finalists!  I will be blogging every night (or morning) during fashion week with show reviews, impressions, celebrity sightings and much more, so check my website frequently at www.maureenfrench.com, and don’t forget to ask questions and make comments.  I’d love to hear from you… Auf Wiedersehen.

Summer is here, schools are letting out and if you’re like me, my attention is focused on summer trips. It doesn’t matter whether you’re going by plane train or automobile, how you pack is almost as important as where you go. Packing can strike fear in the hearts of the uninitiated. I have taken a very unscientific survey among friends, family and strangers in order to come up with packing tips that are sure to make your trip a little smoother.

Getting started is the hardest part. I use a rolling rack set up in my bedroom as the staging area. These racks can be purchased at Target or Container store and can also be used for hanging coats up at a party. The heavy duty commercial rolling rack at Container Store is my favorite. Make sure that all of your potential clothing choices are laundered or dry cleaned. You don’t want to be running around a day or two before your trip picking up dry cleaning. I usually start about a week before a big trip and few days before a small one. Our worst packing choices are made in haste, when we are running out of time.

Exactly what to bring depends largely on what type of vacation: city sightseeing, beach, adventure, sports related. All of these different types of vacations require very different gear. Both www.frommers.com and www.packitup.com are two of many websites that offer free downloadable packing and activity planners. The Frommer’s site has a list geared toward each of the above mentioned trips. In addition to making packing easier, these lists can be really useful if the airlines lose your luggage and you need to make a claim with them or with your homeowner’s carrier.

As you are laying out your clothes, there are a few things to remember. First, plan to have 2-3 tops for every bottom. This is the same ratio you should see in your closet! If you take darker bottoms, it is easier to wear them longer, as they do not show wear and dirt as much as lighter colors. Fabrics should be as wrinkle resistant as possible. Cotton blends are a better choice than linen, and any type of synthetic is going to be better to travel with than silk. Lightweight, tech fabrics are great, as they can be washed out and dry in very little time. Please note that sticking with one color scheme (black or brown) allows you to take fewer shoes, which take up the most room in your luggage. After you are done, instead of adding to the choices, challenge yourself to take away one piece every day. Most people pack much more than they need.

Once you’ve accomplished the above step, the hardest part is over. Now it’s time to fit everything in your suitcase or duffle. According to my research, the hands down winner are the “rolling” method of packing. People swear by this philosophy. As you start, roll all of the larger pieces like pants, coats, etc. They should start on the bottom of your case. As you get to the smaller things like bathing suits and tee shirts, they can be placed around the bigger pieces in the corners and crevices.

An interesting packing product that is gaining in popularity is “decompression bags”. They are the plastic bags that can be packed with clothes and then decompressed with a household vacuum. These bags seem to be a great solution. The only drawbacks I see are if you are moving around a lot, or cannot get access to a vacuum on the way home. These bags are available at the Container Store and can be used many times over.

Once your clothes are in the suitcase, it’s time to use my favorite packing instrument, the ever-useful Ziploc bag. These are perfect for lingerie, socks, toiletries, jewelry and many other items. I use both the quart and gallon size depending on what I am putting in them. They are reusable and can serve other purposes when you arrive at your destination, like transporting sweaty workout clothes or a wet bathing suit.

I always pack shoes on top or in the zippered compartments on the outside of the suitcase. The outside compartments are great for sandals, flip flops, magazines, books and maps. I use the plastic bags that the newspaper comes in to keep my shoes from soiling any of my clean clothes. Again, these bags are reusable and the perfect size for shoes.

Once your bag is packed, make a commitment to LEAVE IT ALONE. Clothes should not go in the suitcase until the day before. You don’t want too much time to ponder all of the clothes you WANT to bring! If traveling with children, I always pack healthy snacks (mostly). I also find that energy and breakfast bars are great to have for layovers or long waits on an aircraft. Lollipops work well for takeoff and landing. I also love books on CD, which can be downloaded onto an iPod. My 10 year old twins used to love The Magic Tree house. I also brought along little toys and games that could be doled out periodically on a long flight.

Once the packing is done, you’ll be free to strike out and discover the wonderful places you visit. I’ll leave you with a quote by Susan Sontag that I love: “I haven’t been everywhere yet, but it’s on my list!” Safe travels…

With Earth day approaching, we all start considering what we are doing to reduce our “carbon footprint”.  A lot of us drive hybrid cars, buy organic produce, take public transportation and of course, recycle.  As a personal shopper, I started thinking of ways I can encourage people, including myself, to be a little greener in the way they dress.  I don’t mean to suggest that green is the new black, but keep an open mind, and it just might be.

Designers getting into eco-friendly garments, shoes and handbags are truly multiplying at a staggering rate.  Denim brands like 7 for all Mankind, James Jeans and even Levi’s are all doing eco-friendly versions. Skinny, wide legged and boot cut styles are all covered.   Most are made with organic cotton with some stretch thrown in, some even using recycled zippers, buttons and rivets.  One company will even “fix” the gaping holes in your favorite old pair of jeans by reweaving them with matching thread… www.denimtherapy.com.

Stella McCartney, talented designer and offspring of Paul has never used animal or fur products in her designs.  As a lifelong vegetarian, her designs align with this long held principle.  She even has shoes in her line and watch out, they are high and tres chic!  Terra Plana (www.terraplana.com) is another shoe line that is made from sustainable or recycled materials.  This line includes everything from sandals to dressy pumps.  Tom’s Shoes also adheres to the socially conscious concept by donating a pair of shoes to a child in need for every pair you buy (www.tomsshoes.com).

If it’s handbags you want, no worries, there are plenty of green alternatives.  Canadian designer Ashley Watson (www.ashleywatson.com) makes every bag out of recycled leather, which makes each one a little different from the next.  Ella Vickers (www.ellavickers) is one of several designers that use old sail boat sails to make roomy tote bags, duffels, backpacks and dog beds as well.  You have to love Kim White handbags (www.kimwhitehandbags.com) because they are all made of reclaimed car upholstery from the 70’s and 80’s!  She also uses furniture upholstery from the 50’s to 70’s.  I never thought the “Gremlin” could look this good!

In a similar category, my favorite shopping bag, beach bag, and all around great tote is the Envirosax line (www.envirosax.com).  They are carried locally at Maison d’Erte, 5640 College Ave. in Rockridge.  This line comes in many different colors and graphic prints, is paper light and folds up super small.  They are reasonably priced and last forever.  This is my very favorite gift giving item.

White Apricot (www.whiteapricot.com) is a great website for those of you who want to take green fashion to the next level.  They have great top ten lists and feature only designers, clothing, shoe and handbag lines that are eco-friendly.  They make dressing green easy to do.

In addition to buying green, there are many ways to make what you already own green.  Obviously, recycling clothing by giving it to a worthy non-profit is a great way to reuse clothing.  Re-purposing clothing by having it altered is another way.  A good seamstress or tailor is very important in this endeavor.  The main alteration I suggest to clients is to shorten long pants to a Capri or walking short, and shortening a traditional trench to knee length or shorter.  Consigning current styles and making some money back is another way to guarantee more wear from a stylish garment.  Vintage is one of my favorite ways of recycling.  I happen to love the lines and shapes of vintage handbags.  They take me back to a different time, and I find myself wondering who once carried my stylish bag.  I have a wonderful vintage Christian Dior handbag that I just love using and I can feel good about reusing.

On Saturday, April 26, 2008 is an event that I think is the epitome of the whole green movement.  “Discarded to Divine” (www.discardedtodivine.com) is the brainchild of Sally Rosen with the St. Vincent DePaul society.  Academy of Art University, City College of San Francisco and FIDM students have created over 100 garments from the discard bin at St. Vincent DePaul.  50% of every garment is discarded material including curtains, upholstery, old wedding dresses, bedding and many other materials.  The event is being hosted at the Academy of Art Tent at 601 Brannan Street from 7-9:30 p.m. on April 26th.  There will be both a silent and live auction and all proceeds from the ticket sales and auctioned items will be donated to St. Vincent DePaul.  All of the food, drinks, models fees and venue have been donated and the theme of the event will be …you guessed it, GREEN!

This event really closes the circle of recycling and giving back to the community, what a potent combination.  It should also be noted that Oakland born, later Piedmont High School Alumni, Amanda Cleary is one of the Academy students that has designed a couture dress for the event.  The dress is featured on the www.discardedtodivine.com website.  Tickets are $45-$90 and they are going fast!  Happy Earth Day!

New Year’s eve has come and gone and most of us are still pondering what our resolutions will be and how long we’ll stick to them.  Two of the most popular, yet disappointing resolutions are the desire to loose weight and start an exercise program.  I started thinking about how I can accomplish this without all of the pain and deprivation associated with dieting and exercise.  Then I had my “AHA” moment, to coin Oprah’s much used phrase.  Why not DRESS thin instead of dieting my way there?  So with that as my goal, here are my suggestions for dressing thinner.

I have to start with what NOT to wear.  For both men and women, pleats add weight!  Remember this always, unless you are very thin (thus no need for above resolutions) pleats are extra fabric and are rarely going to make you look thinner.  Similarly, pants with a tapered or “peg” leg type bottom, will exaggerate your middle, an area most of us don’t want to draw attention to.  Pants that are too short (listen up all you men out there) also make you look shorter and heavier.  The combination of pleats at the waist with a tapered bottom is going to add 10 lbs. without the fun of eating and drinking your way there.  You make the call!

Clingy and tight fabrics are not our friends.  If you are trying to look thinner, keep the focus away from your problem areas, thus no tightness in the middle.  Also remember that bigger is not necessarily better.  A very tented style makes it hard to discern where the garment ends and you begin.  Overly baggy tops or bottoms definitely add unnecessary pounds.  Large horizontal stripes are also to be avoided as they make people appear wider than they are.  Large scale prints are another possible pitfall in the quest to dress slimmer.

Make sure you don’t cut yourself off in the middle.  In other words, extend a vertical line down your body and try not to chop it off in the middle.  You can accomplish this by wearing monochromatic outfits or colors that are not totally contrasting like black and white.  You can always add some color interest with a scarf or interesting piece of jewelry.

Now that you know what not to wear, let’s focus on what to wear.  For bottoms, a wider legged pant or trouser will always balance a larger middle, as will an A-line skirt or dress.  These gently fall away from the body making your bottom and hips look smaller and more balanced.  Obviously, darker colors on the bottom half of your body will minimize that area.  Black is not your only choice either.  Try dark wash jeans, brown, navy or dark grey pants and skirts instead.  Pay attention to the quality and drape of the fabric.  Fabrics with a little more body are not going to hug your problem areas, and will fall nicely away from your body.  Bottoms that are lined are also going to look smoother and sleeker than those that are not.

As you may imagine, any type of clothing that creates a vertical line from your head to your toes is slimming and makes you look taller.  This is one of the most appealing things about wearing high heels, as it visually extends that line.  You can also create the line by wearing vertical stripes.  These can be on a button down shirt for men and women, a chalk or pin stripe in a pant (men or women) and also in a skirt or dress for women.  This illusion is one that is proven over and over.  Wearing a longer top for women also extends that imaginary or real vertical line.  This can be done with a longer jacket, tunic top or long cardigan.

Keep your prints in check, and scale them back if you tend toward more dramatic colors.  Remember that your accessories should also be considered in dressing slimmer.  Handbags should be chosen in relation to your natural size.  If you are larger boned, carrying a very small bag will make you appear bigger and vice versa.  Be sure to choose a handbag based on what your needs are, but also what your body type is.  Jewelry falls into this same category.  Chunkier jewelry looks better on a body that can accommodate the oversized look.  Choose jewelry that catches people’s attention, but is also in sync with your body size.

The last tip for looking slimmer is perhaps the most important.  Wearing the right “foundations” (aka undergarments) is the key to looking thinner.  The right fit takes away 5 lbs. visually and the wrong fit can add 10 lbs.  Which would you prefer?  You can find a good fitter in the lingerie area of most major department stores.  Following these suggestions might just get you that much coveted question, “have you lost weight?”  Don’t worry…I’ll never give away our little secret!

The wait is over. I have just returned from my first foray into the spectacle that is New York fashion week. Did it live up to all the hype and hysteria??? You bet it did! It was all that and more. From the time you enter the “tents” in Bryant Park where the majority of the major shows are held, you enter another universe. People suddenly speak your language and talk your talk. Both men and women are dressed well, although some go a bit overboard to say the least. Every time I flashed my press pass to enter the tents, I felt a new jolt of excitement

I was only able to attend the last three days of an 8 day long fashion week. The first show I attended was Milly by Michele Smith on Monday afternoon (9/10). Michelle Smith launched Milly in 2000. I was happy to have my first star sighting right off the bat. LeAnn Rimes was quickly escorted to her seat so that us common folk would not be a bother. Keep in mind that designers are one or more seasons ahead of what’s in the stores, so I was seeing Spring/ Summer 2008 collections. This collection was fun and feminine, with the predominant colors being navy, white and electric green along with graphic black/ white prints. Together, this color combination looked really fresh and clean. The models wore different head coverings including a turban like hat that I could certainly use on my bad hair days! The clothing looked retro and elegant with a modern twist. Skirts were pencil thin and EVERYTHING is being belted (note this for next season). Cardigans tied around the neck were prevalent as were tiny bikinis in fun playful prints. Large oversized totes were shown with beachy cover-ups. This is a really cute line with a younger vibe, but some pieces are definitely wearable for the over 40’s set. Milly is carried locally by Bloomingdale’s, Saks and Neiman’s.

Monday night was the John Varvatos show. Varvatos is the designer credited with infusing the Converse brand with new life. This show was held on the 45th floor of a building in lower Manhattan. The space had a very industrial quality as it was unfinished office space. There were windows all along 2 sides which made for a beautiful view of tribeca and the financial district. John Varvatos does great menswear with a hip, urban feel to it. Tim Robbins (Susan Sarandon’s partner) was my next star sighting of the day/night. This was a great show although the male models looked all of about 13, more boys than men.

The runway looks were casual and cavalier, not taking themselves too seriously. The inspiration noted in the show notes mentioned the bohemian feel of the collection. Even the more tailored pieces did not look overdone. The colors were very neutral with a lot of grey, dusty rose, faded brick and pale pink along with washed shades of black and brown. The pants were very slim cut, with few grown men able to pull this look off. The knits were memorable with the vest making numerous appearances. The knits coupled with more traditional plaid shirting, made for a striking combination. The music for the show was vintage Alice Cooper, who was apparently joining Varvatos at his after show party. John Varvatos dressed several of the Emmy award attendees this past Sunday. Throwing a menswear show into the mix was a good move indeed.

Tuesday (9/11) began with torrential rain and stayed that way most of the day. Getting to the tents without getting soaking wet was a real feat. Not having packed a raincoat, but throwing in an umbrella at the last moment was like the proverbial Band-Aid on a break. After walking one block on my way to the subway, a quick stop in a drugstore for a child’s rain poncho (it was all they had left) torn at the neck to get it over my head, was all I could do to help myself. My footwear was a pair of trusty Havaiana flip flops that fared pretty well through the massive puddles. Once safely in the tents I headed to the Betsey Johnson show.

This was a show I was really looking forward to. The invitations were hot pick with black lettering and had pictures of Betsey’s 1958 Prom (during which she was crowned homecoming queen). The tent was decorated like it was 1958, complete with little tables lining the catwalk with centerpieces and silver tablecloths. Tori Spelling and hubby Dean McDermott were the celebs dujour at this show. Betsey never disappoints when it comes to theatrics. The show was a walk UP memory lane as the styles started in the 1950’s and proceeded all the way up to present day. The dresses were fun and frilly with more tulle than anyone should ever use, but that’s signature Betsey Johnson. The music mirrored each decade and the colors were candy store hues, both bright and pastel. Johnson also showed some summer looks with the main colors black and white (again) with polka dots and stripes in abundance. Cinched at the waist or bodice was the trend here. This is a show totally dedicated to wit and whimsy. Betsey cart wheeled down the runway at the conclusion of the show to the strains of Eric Clapton’s “Layla”, (her granddaughter’s name). Fun, fun, fun!

Tuesday night was Custo Barcelona, a line I had seen a lot while in Barcelona this summer. This collection has a European esthetic. The prints were bold, graphic and geometric and the color palette was bright: blues, purples, fuchsia, and lots of metallic sliver and grey. Custo Dalmau is a designer who is not afraid of color or pattern. There were lots of dresses in this collection as well as daring menswear, not for the faint of heart. Tote bags were oversized and dresses were not. There were wide legged trousers, and asymmetrical swimsuits and cover-ups. Beautiful jackets, jumpers and skirts tailored expertly wowed the packed tent. Evening ensembles, swimsuits and handbags are new to this line and will debut in stores in Spring 2008.

The tent lobby is a bit more crowded in the evenings than during the day. Drinks were being passed, and champagne was plentiful. I watched the Zac Posen show on live video feed to the lobby while sipping champagne with all of the beautiful people. Zac seems to be the designer of the moment with Mariska Hargitay and Katherine Heigel wearing his dresses to the Emmy awards Sunday. As you may recall, Zac Posen was the guest of honor for the Academy of Art University student show in April. He is boyish, charming and self deprecating all at the same time.

Wednesday was the last day of fashion week and a slower day all around. I went to a show by Caravan, which was more of a collective show with lots of different international designers. The show included Vivienne Westwood, Fred Perry (England), Walter Baker (USA), Purp7e (Brazil) and Edun, the line launched by Bono and his wife Ali Hewson. This was a more low key show at a warehouse space in Chelsea. This show was a good way to wind down my few days in fashion heaven. I’d do it again in a heartbeat, and next time, I’ll pack the raincoat!

It’s hard to believe summer is almost over and kids are heading (or are already) back to school.  The Fashion magazines are brimming with the new trends, and declaring the season a success already.  Retailers are keeping it closer to the cuff as they await what will be best sellers and what will not.  I will try to boil down what will be the more wearable trends that we all can have a piece of.

Starting with colors this season… it will have lots of interest.  Pantone, the color authority, lists Spicy Chili Pepper, Lemon Curry and Purple Wine as dominant colors, along with Espresso Brown, Cashmere Rose, Green Moss and Burnt Ochre (translation: a shade of orange).  Gray seems to be making the biggest impact this season, as the “it” color.  For those who do not favor gray, try pairing it with a fun, bright color.  Red is everywhere and looks great with gray or black.  Having just returned from Barcelona,

Spain, every store was showing some form of red in their fall collections.  Remember to choose the shade of red that goes best with your complexion, all reds are NOT created equal!

Silhouettes will be slimming down this season and billowing out.  Skirts will be more tailored and more like the pencil style.  You will also see more full and flared styles also.  Pleats will prevail as long as you wear a more fitted top with them.  Pants will be either the continuation of the “skinny” jean look along with the wider legged trouser, with a higher waist.  You can actually use your pockets in these pants.  This style is flattering, and balances out a larger top or midsection.

Tweeds are making an appearance this season in very easy- to- wear variations.  They are sophisticated, but not stuffy this time around. Pair them with a nicely tailored leather jacket and you have a winning combination. You could also experiment with a more edgy motocross styled leather jacket. Man tailored clothing is also returning, so the tweed trend goes well with it.

Chunky sweaters and knits seem to be the way to keep warm this fall and winter.  The gauges seem to be exaggerated and bold.  For those of you who knit, take note: pull out your largest needles and start knitting!  Neutral colors will be your best bet for these pieces whether you choose a sweater coat, cardigan, tunic or oversize turtleneck.  Keep your bottom half tailored and not too baggy to balance the volume of this sweater.

Patent leather is BIG, BIG, BIG!  This trend is exploding.  We saw shoes and bags last season, and this season it’s taken one step further.  Patent leather trenches are showing up all over.  I love patent as much as the next person, but a patent trench?  Pass on that and grab yourself patent shoes and a bag.  Dresses are showing up with patent details and works nicely.  It will remind you of the days of Mary Janes and plaid skirts.

Capes are the new look in outerwear.   I think this is the next progression after ponchos.  Capes are more stylish and sophisticated, although not that easy to maneuver around in.  If you choose this look, stay with a style that can be belted in the front and worn looser in the back.  If your arms are too restrained, move on and choose another.  Bowed blouses look great with capes, and there are plenty to choose from.  The bow can be right at the neck, to the side or at the bottom of a V-neck.  Fabrics should be silky and easy to move in.  Cotton tends to be a bit stiff for this style to work.

Shine is the big buzz word this season, whether it is the shine of patent leather or the reflection of sequins and pailettes.  Eveningwear is shiny, silvery and sparkling.  You can choose from bronze, silver or gold.  No shortage of shimmering styles in dresses, shoes, bags and outerwear.

Feathers and faux fur are also showing up in trims and detailing.  Personally, I would skip the feathers in favor of the faux fur.  These treatments look great on evening wear or on the sleeve of a serious suit.  Choose what you like, and what looks good and remember to have some fun along the way.

Passport prevails …for 25 years.  One of my favorite shows is scheduled for the 19th and 20th of September.  Passport is coming, and it never disappoints.  This is the 25th anniversary of the show which has raised 25 million dollars benefiting the HIV/ AIDS community, both locally and nationally.  Passport is one of the Bay areas’ premiere fashion events and you don’t want to miss it!  For more information log on to www.macy’s.com and for tickets go to www.ticketmaster.com.

A parting note…I will be heading to New York Fashion Week September 5th – 12th.  Check out my experiences and impressions of the shows in the week or so after,  in this column.  Our very own Academy of Art University students will be showing their collections in the tents of Bryant Park on Saturday, September 8th at 7 p.m.  They will also be showing at the Passport events.  It’s a big month for the AAU fashion department and we’re so proud to have our local talent showcased so spectacularly!