as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter April, 2008

With Earth day approaching, we all start considering what we are doing to reduce our “carbon footprint”.  A lot of us drive hybrid cars, buy organic produce, take public transportation and of course, recycle.  As a personal shopper, I started thinking of ways I can encourage people, including myself, to be a little greener in the way they dress.  I don’t mean to suggest that green is the new black, but keep an open mind, and it just might be.

Designers getting into eco-friendly garments, shoes and handbags are truly multiplying at a staggering rate.  Denim brands like 7 for all Mankind, James Jeans and even Levi’s are all doing eco-friendly versions. Skinny, wide legged and boot cut styles are all covered.   Most are made with organic cotton with some stretch thrown in, some even using recycled zippers, buttons and rivets.  One company will even “fix” the gaping holes in your favorite old pair of jeans by reweaving them with matching thread… www.denimtherapy.com.

Stella McCartney, talented designer and offspring of Paul has never used animal or fur products in her designs.  As a lifelong vegetarian, her designs align with this long held principle.  She even has shoes in her line and watch out, they are high and tres chic!  Terra Plana (www.terraplana.com) is another shoe line that is made from sustainable or recycled materials.  This line includes everything from sandals to dressy pumps.  Tom’s Shoes also adheres to the socially conscious concept by donating a pair of shoes to a child in need for every pair you buy (www.tomsshoes.com).

If it’s handbags you want, no worries, there are plenty of green alternatives.  Canadian designer Ashley Watson (www.ashleywatson.com) makes every bag out of recycled leather, which makes each one a little different from the next.  Ella Vickers (www.ellavickers) is one of several designers that use old sail boat sails to make roomy tote bags, duffels, backpacks and dog beds as well.  You have to love Kim White handbags (www.kimwhitehandbags.com) because they are all made of reclaimed car upholstery from the 70’s and 80’s!  She also uses furniture upholstery from the 50’s to 70’s.  I never thought the “Gremlin” could look this good!

In a similar category, my favorite shopping bag, beach bag, and all around great tote is the Envirosax line (www.envirosax.com).  They are carried locally at Maison d’Erte, 5640 College Ave. in Rockridge.  This line comes in many different colors and graphic prints, is paper light and folds up super small.  They are reasonably priced and last forever.  This is my very favorite gift giving item.

White Apricot (www.whiteapricot.com) is a great website for those of you who want to take green fashion to the next level.  They have great top ten lists and feature only designers, clothing, shoe and handbag lines that are eco-friendly.  They make dressing green easy to do.

In addition to buying green, there are many ways to make what you already own green.  Obviously, recycling clothing by giving it to a worthy non-profit is a great way to reuse clothing.  Re-purposing clothing by having it altered is another way.  A good seamstress or tailor is very important in this endeavor.  The main alteration I suggest to clients is to shorten long pants to a Capri or walking short, and shortening a traditional trench to knee length or shorter.  Consigning current styles and making some money back is another way to guarantee more wear from a stylish garment.  Vintage is one of my favorite ways of recycling.  I happen to love the lines and shapes of vintage handbags.  They take me back to a different time, and I find myself wondering who once carried my stylish bag.  I have a wonderful vintage Christian Dior handbag that I just love using and I can feel good about reusing.

On Saturday, April 26, 2008 is an event that I think is the epitome of the whole green movement.  “Discarded to Divine” (www.discardedtodivine.com) is the brainchild of Sally Rosen with the St. Vincent DePaul society.  Academy of Art University, City College of San Francisco and FIDM students have created over 100 garments from the discard bin at St. Vincent DePaul.  50% of every garment is discarded material including curtains, upholstery, old wedding dresses, bedding and many other materials.  The event is being hosted at the Academy of Art Tent at 601 Brannan Street from 7-9:30 p.m. on April 26th.  There will be both a silent and live auction and all proceeds from the ticket sales and auctioned items will be donated to St. Vincent DePaul.  All of the food, drinks, models fees and venue have been donated and the theme of the event will be …you guessed it, GREEN!

This event really closes the circle of recycling and giving back to the community, what a potent combination.  It should also be noted that Oakland born, later Piedmont High School Alumni, Amanda Cleary is one of the Academy students that has designed a couture dress for the event.  The dress is featured on the www.discardedtodivine.com website.  Tickets are $45-$90 and they are going fast!  Happy Earth Day!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter January, 2008

New Year’s eve has come and gone and most of us are still pondering what our resolutions will be and how long we’ll stick to them.  Two of the most popular, yet disappointing resolutions are the desire to loose weight and start an exercise program.  I started thinking about how I can accomplish this without all of the pain and deprivation associated with dieting and exercise.  Then I had my “AHA” moment, to coin Oprah’s much used phrase.  Why not DRESS thin instead of dieting my way there?  So with that as my goal, here are my suggestions for dressing thinner.

I have to start with what NOT to wear.  For both men and women, pleats add weight!  Remember this always, unless you are very thin (thus no need for above resolutions) pleats are extra fabric and are rarely going to make you look thinner.  Similarly, pants with a tapered or “peg” leg type bottom, will exaggerate your middle, an area most of us don’t want to draw attention to.  Pants that are too short (listen up all you men out there) also make you look shorter and heavier.  The combination of pleats at the waist with a tapered bottom is going to add 10 lbs. without the fun of eating and drinking your way there.  You make the call!

Clingy and tight fabrics are not our friends.  If you are trying to look thinner, keep the focus away from your problem areas, thus no tightness in the middle.  Also remember that bigger is not necessarily better.  A very tented style makes it hard to discern where the garment ends and you begin.  Overly baggy tops or bottoms definitely add unnecessary pounds.  Large horizontal stripes are also to be avoided as they make people appear wider than they are.  Large scale prints are another possible pitfall in the quest to dress slimmer.

Make sure you don’t cut yourself off in the middle.  In other words, extend a vertical line down your body and try not to chop it off in the middle.  You can accomplish this by wearing monochromatic outfits or colors that are not totally contrasting like black and white.  You can always add some color interest with a scarf or interesting piece of jewelry.

Now that you know what not to wear, let’s focus on what to wear.  For bottoms, a wider legged pant or trouser will always balance a larger middle, as will an A-line skirt or dress.  These gently fall away from the body making your bottom and hips look smaller and more balanced.  Obviously, darker colors on the bottom half of your body will minimize that area.  Black is not your only choice either.  Try dark wash jeans, brown, navy or dark grey pants and skirts instead.  Pay attention to the quality and drape of the fabric.  Fabrics with a little more body are not going to hug your problem areas, and will fall nicely away from your body.  Bottoms that are lined are also going to look smoother and sleeker than those that are not.

As you may imagine, any type of clothing that creates a vertical line from your head to your toes is slimming and makes you look taller.  This is one of the most appealing things about wearing high heels, as it visually extends that line.  You can also create the line by wearing vertical stripes.  These can be on a button down shirt for men and women, a chalk or pin stripe in a pant (men or women) and also in a skirt or dress for women.  This illusion is one that is proven over and over.  Wearing a longer top for women also extends that imaginary or real vertical line.  This can be done with a longer jacket, tunic top or long cardigan.

Keep your prints in check, and scale them back if you tend toward more dramatic colors.  Remember that your accessories should also be considered in dressing slimmer.  Handbags should be chosen in relation to your natural size.  If you are larger boned, carrying a very small bag will make you appear bigger and vice versa.  Be sure to choose a handbag based on what your needs are, but also what your body type is.  Jewelry falls into this same category.  Chunkier jewelry looks better on a body that can accommodate the oversized look.  Choose jewelry that catches people’s attention, but is also in sync with your body size.

The last tip for looking slimmer is perhaps the most important.  Wearing the right “foundations” (aka undergarments) is the key to looking thinner.  The right fit takes away 5 lbs. visually and the wrong fit can add 10 lbs.  Which would you prefer?  You can find a good fitter in the lingerie area of most major department stores.  Following these suggestions might just get you that much coveted question, “have you lost weight?”  Don’t worry…I’ll never give away our little secret!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter September, 2007

The wait is over.  I have just returned from my first foray into the spectacle that is New York fashion week.  Did it live up to all the hype and hysteria???  You bet it did!  It was all that and more.  From the time you enter the “tents” in Bryant Park where the majority of the major shows are held, you enter another universe.  People suddenly speak your language and talk your talk.  Both men and women are dressed well, although some go a bit overboard to say the least.  Every time I flashed my press pass to enter the tents, I felt a new jolt of excitement

I was only able to attend the last three days of an 8 day long fashion week.  The first show I attended was Milly by Michele Smith on Monday afternoon (9/10).  Michelle Smith launched Milly in 2000.  I was happy to have my first star sighting right off the bat.  LeAnn Rimes was quickly escorted to her seat so that us common folk would not be a bother.  Keep in mind that designers are one or more seasons ahead of what’s in the stores, so I was seeing Spring/ Summer 2008 collections.  This collection was fun and feminine, with the predominant colors being navy, white and electric green along with graphic black/ white prints.  Together, this color combination looked really fresh and clean.  The models wore different head coverings including a turban like hat that I could certainly use on my bad hair days!  The clothing looked retro and elegant with a modern twist.  Skirts were pencil thin and EVERYTHING is being belted (note this for next season).  Cardigans tied around the neck were prevalent as were tiny bikinis in fun playful prints.  Large oversized totes were shown with beachy cover-ups.  This is a really cute line with a younger vibe, but some pieces are definitely wearable for the over 40’s set. Milly is carried locally by Bloomingdale’s, Saks and Neiman’s.

Monday night was the John Varvatos show.  Varvatos is the designer credited with infusing the Converse brand with new life.  This show was held on the 45th floor of a building in lower Manhattan.  The space had a very industrial quality as it was unfinished office space.  There were windows all along 2 sides which made for a beautiful view of tribeca and the financial district.  John Varvatos does great menswear with a hip, urban feel to it.  Tim Robbins (Susan Sarandon’s partner) was my next star sighting of the day/night.  This was a great show although the male models looked all of about 13, more boys than men.

The runway looks were casual and cavalier, not taking themselves too seriously.  The inspiration noted in the show notes mentioned the bohemian feel of the collection.  Even the more tailored pieces did not look overdone.  The colors were very neutral with a lot of grey, dusty rose, faded brick and pale pink along with washed shades of black and brown.  The pants were very slim cut, with few grown men able to pull this look off.  The knits were memorable with the vest making numerous appearances.  The knits coupled with more traditional plaid shirting, made for a striking combination.  The music for the show was vintage Alice Cooper, who was apparently joining Varvatos at his after show party.  John Varvatos dressed several of the Emmy award attendees this past Sunday.  Throwing a menswear show into the mix was a good move indeed.

Tuesday (9/11) began with torrential rain and stayed that way most of the day.  Getting to the tents without getting soaking wet was a real feat.  Not having packed a raincoat, but throwing in an umbrella at the last moment was like the proverbial Band-Aid on a break.  After walking one block on my way to the subway, a quick stop in a drugstore for a child’s rain poncho (it was all they had left) torn at the neck to get it over my head, was all I could do to help myself.  My footwear was a pair of trusty Havaiana flip flops that fared pretty well through the massive puddles.  Once safely in the tents I headed to the Betsey Johnson show. 

This was a show I was really looking forward to.  The invitations were hot pick with black lettering and had pictures of Betsey’s 1958 Prom (during which she was crowned homecoming queen).  The tent was decorated like it was 1958, complete with little tables lining the catwalk with centerpieces and silver tablecloths.  Tori Spelling and hubby Dean McDermott were the celebs dujour at this show.   Betsey never disappoints when it comes to theatrics.  The show was a walk UP memory lane as the styles started in the 1950’s and proceeded all the way up to present day.  The dresses were fun and frilly with more tulle than anyone should ever use, but that’s signature Betsey Johnson.  The music mirrored each decade and the colors were candy store hues, both bright and pastel.  Johnson also showed some summer looks with the main colors black and white (again) with polka dots and stripes in abundance.  Cinched at the waist or bodice was the trend here.  This is a show totally dedicated to wit and whimsy.  Betsey cart wheeled down the runway at the conclusion of the show to the strains of Eric Clapton’s “Layla”, (her granddaughter’s name).  Fun, fun, fun!

Tuesday night was Custo Barcelona, a line I had seen a lot while in Barcelona this summer.  This collection has a European esthetic.  The prints were bold, graphic and geometric and the color palette was bright: blues, purples, fuchsia, and lots of metallic sliver and grey.  Custo Dalmau is a designer who is not afraid of color or pattern. There were lots of dresses in this collection as well as daring menswear, not for the faint of heart. Tote bags were oversized and dresses were not.  There were wide legged trousers, and asymmetrical swimsuits and cover-ups.  Beautiful jackets, jumpers and skirts tailored expertly wowed the packed tent.  Evening ensembles, swimsuits and handbags are new to this line and will debut in stores in Spring 2008.

The tent lobby is a bit more crowded in the evenings than during the day.  Drinks were being passed, and champagne was plentiful.  I watched the Zac Posen show on live video feed to the lobby while sipping champagne with all of the beautiful people.  Zac seems to be the designer of the moment with Mariska Hargitay and Katherine Heigel wearing his dresses to the Emmy awards Sunday.  As you may recall, Zac Posen was the guest of honor for the Academy of Art University student show in April.  He is boyish, charming and self deprecating all at the same time.

Wednesday was the last day of fashion week and a slower day all around.  I went to a show by Caravan, which was more of a collective show with lots of different international designers.  The show included Vivienne Westwood, Fred Perry (England), Walter Baker (USA), Purp7e (Brazil) and Edun, the line launched by Bono and his wife Ali Hewson.  This was a more low key show at a warehouse space in Chelsea.  This show was a good way to wind down my few days in fashion heaven.  I’d do it again in a heartbeat, and next time, I’ll pack the raincoat!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter August, 2007

It’s hard to believe summer is almost over and kids are heading (or are already) back to school.  The Fashion magazines are brimming with the new trends, and declaring the season a success already.  Retailers are keeping it closer to the cuff as they await what will be best sellers and what will not.  I will try to boil down what will be the more wearable trends that we all can have a piece of.

Starting with colors this season… it will have lots of interest.  Pantone, the color authority, lists Spicy Chili Pepper, Lemon Curry and Purple Wine as dominant colors, along with Espresso Brown, Cashmere Rose, Green Moss and Burnt Ochre (translation: a shade of orange).  Gray seems to be making the biggest impact this season, as the “it” color.  For those who do not favor gray, try pairing it with a fun, bright color.  Red is everywhere and looks great with gray or black.  Having just returned from Barcelona,

Spain, every store was showing some form of red in their fall collections.  Remember to choose the shade of red that goes best with your complexion, all reds are NOT created equal!

Silhouettes will be slimming down this season and billowing out.  Skirts will be more tailored and more like the pencil style.  You will also see more full and flared styles also.  Pleats will prevail as long as you wear a more fitted top with them.  Pants will be either the continuation of the “skinny” jean look along with the wider legged trouser, with a higher waist.  You can actually use your pockets in these pants.  This style is flattering, and balances out a larger top or midsection.

Tweeds are making an appearance this season in very easy- to- wear variations.  They are sophisticated, but not stuffy this time around. Pair them with a nicely tailored leather jacket and you have a winning combination. You could also experiment with a more edgy motocross styled leather jacket. Man tailored clothing is also returning, so the tweed trend goes well with it. 

Chunky sweaters and knits seem to be the way to keep warm this fall and winter.  The gauges seem to be exaggerated and bold.  For those of you who knit, take note: pull out your largest needles and start knitting!  Neutral colors will be your best bet for these pieces whether you choose a sweater coat, cardigan, tunic or oversize turtleneck.  Keep your bottom half tailored and not too baggy to balance the volume of this sweater.

Patent leather is BIG, BIG, BIG!  This trend is exploding.  We saw shoes and bags last season, and this season it’s taken one step further.  Patent leather trenches are showing up all over.  I love patent as much as the next person, but a patent trench?  Pass on that and grab yourself patent shoes and a bag.  Dresses are showing up with patent details and works nicely.  It will remind you of the days of Mary Janes and plaid skirts.

Capes are the new look in outerwear.   I think this is the next progression after ponchos.  Capes are more stylish and sophisticated, although not that easy to maneuver around in.  If you choose this look, stay with a style that can be belted in the front and worn looser in the back.  If your arms are too restrained, move on and choose another.  Bowed blouses look great with capes, and there are plenty to choose from.  The bow can be right at the neck, to the side or at the bottom of a V-neck.  Fabrics should be silky and easy to move in.  Cotton tends to be a bit stiff for this style to work.

Shine is the big buzz word this season, whether it is the shine of patent leather or the reflection of sequins and pailettes.  Eveningwear is shiny, silvery and sparkling.  You can choose from bronze, silver or gold.  No shortage of shimmering styles in dresses, shoes, bags and outerwear.

Feathers and faux fur are also showing up in trims and detailing.  Personally, I would skip the feathers in favor of the faux fur.  These treatments look great on evening wear or on the sleeve of a serious suit.  Choose what you like, and what looks good and remember to have some fun along the way.

Passport prevails …for 25 years.  One of my favorite shows is scheduled for the 19th and 20th of September.  Passport is coming, and it never disappoints.  This is the 25th anniversary of the show which has raised 25 million dollars benefiting the HIV/ AIDS community, both locally and nationally.  Passport is one of the Bay areas’ premiere fashion events and you don’t want to miss it!  For more information log on to www.macy’s.com and for tickets go to www.ticketmaster.com.

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter May, 2007

After much pushing and prodding, I am finally giving in to the pressure and writing a column about men’s clothing.  It’s not that I don’t like men or their clothing.  It’s not that I don’t have some great male clients.  It’s just that men generally don’t want to read about clothing and fashion.
 
From my experience, men approach dressing and fashion much in the same way they approach car maintenance.  Every 2500 miles, the oil in the car gets changed.  Every year or two, men shop for clothing.  When the tires have been on the car a certain amount of time, they get rotated.  Men do the same with their wardrobes.  I am not saying that every man hates to shop, but a large majority do. 
 
My husband’s technique is to write his name in my appointment book so that I have him on my schedule, just like a client.  I know that I have about 2 hours to shop with him, and it better be productive!  Men expect results, no excuses.
 
Shopping with men is in some ways the same as women.  Men have areas that they like to show off, and some they’d rather camouflage, just like women.  The difference I find with male clients is that if I tell them how good they look in something…they believe me!  They do not second guess or need convincing.  We buy that piece or pieces and move on. 
 
Much like women, men look good in certain colors and not as good in others.  My job is to point out the ones they look good in and stay away from the ones that don’t.  I remember my sister’s 40th birthday party at a beautiful private room in a restaurant overlooking the S.F. bay.  My brother in law had picked a really high quality button down shirt to wear that was the most beautiful shade of cantelope.  It was the perfect hue, and everyone commented on how great that shirt looked on him.  I think that was a lesson, on how the right color can really make a statement, man or woman.
 
Another major difference between shopping for men and women is fit.  Men’s clothing tends to be very consistent.  A 34” waist and 32” length is pretty standard no matter what vendor or designer you try on.  This makes is very easy to pull clothing for a man.  Keep in mind though, that certain cuts are better on some men than others.  Some look good in a pleated pant and others in a flat front.  Men have their “problem areas” just like us women!   The good news is that shopping with men is a much quicker experience.  Most of what I choose for men will fit them, it’s more a matter of choosing what looks best. 
 
Another difference is that men generally understand that better quality is going to translate into more miles before they need new tires (shoes).  A pair of Cole Haan shoes at $300 is going to last a lot longer and be more comfortable than and pair of $59 leather look a likes from Payless.  More miles on the shoes, translates to more time between shopping trips.  Comfort is usually higher on the priority list than looks, so I have to be careful here to choose something that satisfies both requirements.
 
Sometimes, it’s important to tell a man that the car is a lemon, or that it is no longer running well enough to drive, and junk it!  Men are just as guilty of holding on to clothing longer than they should.  Men’s bodies change with age also and clothing should evolve to fit that shape.  Khakis that are threadbare from all of the washings should be tossed, as should any clothing that has lost its shape, shrunk or faded in color. 
 
Clothing should not be thought of as a uniform.  Just because something looks good, does not mean you need to buy it in every color.  Again, using the automobile metaphor, you would probably not want two of the same cars.  You might want to drive an SUV on the weekends and a BMW for the work week.  Keep your clothing fresh and rotate shirts and bottoms so that you are not always pairing the same shirt with the same bottom.  The ratio of 2-3 tops for every bottom applies to men’s clothing as well as women’s.  Variety, good taste and high quality are the hallmark of a well dressed man, and the same can be said about cars!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter April, 2007

Finding the perfect handbag is a lot like finding the perfect partner.  Before you think me a fool, let me explain.  When you meet your match, there is instant chemistry and you know they are the one.  Well, the same can be said for a handbag that you just have to have!  There is instant infatuation and you can’t live without it.  I’ve had this experience lately, but more on that later.

There are several requirements that this handbag must have before you decide to “settle” down with it.  It has to satisfy several litmus tests, if you will.  The first is size.  Does it fit everything you need to get through a typical day?  Does is feel OK even if it is at full capacity?  Can you comfortably wear it on your shoulder for long periods of time?  If you have to habit of stuffing your bag to within and inch of it’s full capacity, look for a bag that you can’t do this with.  There is nothing more unattractive than a handbag this is too full.  Another tip is to feel how heavy the bag is when it is completely empty.  If it’s already heavy you might want to take a pass and keep on looking.

The next thing to consider in this all important coupling is the color of the bag.  I personally treat handbags as accessories, meaning that I change mine constantly.  If you are going to stick to one bag for the whole season, I would stick with black or brown.  If you are looking for a way to turn up your color quotient, choose a bag in a fun spring color.  Try to stick with a color that will coordinate with most of what you wear.  Handbags are a fun and safe way to jazz up your look a little, without worrying about what size you wear, or weather it will make you look fat!

On the size note, consider the scale of the bag.  In other words, if you are a petite person, don’t choose a huge oversized handbag.  It will overcome you and all people will notice is the bag.  Conversely, if you are a larger woman, do not carry a tiny bag, again think scale when choosing.  Of course, this rule does not apply the evening or cocktail bags, where the point is not to notice them much.

Another factor in determining compatibility is what material your bag will be.  Most people choose leather for its great look and durability.  If you are sticking with one bag I highly recommend leather.  If you want to be more adventurous, there are a lot of manufacturers/ designers that are coming out with Vegan (non leather) alternatives, very durable straw or synthetic materials.  Remember, you want a long and stable relationship with this bag, so stick with a material you can relate to!

Now, think of the all important “style” of the bag.  Do you like a slouchy boho kind of bag with just one strap, or do you prefer a more structured look like the revered Birkin style?  Is a backpack style the only thing your back can handle, or do you like a briefcase style with room for all of your high tech gadgets?  Handbags are very personal territory, so only you can determine what works for you.

Lastly, how much should spend on this all important decision?  Remember that this bag should elevate your look, not bring it down.  I am not advocating buying a bag with the same price tag as a small economy car (they ARE out there, believe me), but you should spend enough to for a good looking, quality bag that you love carrying around with you.

I recently fell in love with a bag.  I’m ashamed to say that I am quite fickle when it comes to handbags.  Luckily, I am quite committed to my husband/ partner of 13 years.  I saw this bag and couldn’t get it out of my mind.  I thought about it a lot.  It was a beautiful patent leather (a very IN look, by the way) tote, with just the right amount of space inside.  Let me mention it had a hefty price tag to match it’s beauty.  I had used the bag as a prop at a packing program I did at Bloomingdale’s, and it was love at first sight.  What did I do?  I went back and bought it!  I now carry it proudly (you may see me around the village with it), and every time I carry that handbag, it makes my outfit and me look better!  That’s the beauty of a perfect match!

Another fashion note: My favorite student fashion show is happening today, Friday April 27th.  The Academy of Art University student fashion show is being held at 601 Brannan Street @ 5th St. in San Francisco.  There are two shows open to the public at 3:00 p.m. today, Friday and another tomorrow, Saturday, at 3:00 p.m. also.  The show for industry is at 7 p.m. tonight by invitation only.  Guests of honor include: fashion designer Zac Posen, Yves Saint Laurent friend and muse Loulou de la Falaise, and fashion editor of The Washington Post, Robin Givhan.  For more information logon to www.academyart.edu.

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter March, 2007

THE WEATHER LATELY has been a bit of a tease. Between daylight-saving time coming so early, and one of the driest winters on record almost behind us, it has been very tempting to start wearing all of those new spring purchases sitting in your closets. If you have been good and waited for the flowers to bloom before buying anything new, then here's what you might be seeing in some of the stores and out on the street.

Nautical remixed is a look that depends on the basics of red, white, khaki and blue, stripes and gold buttons. The way they are showing nautical this year is mixing vertical stripes with horizontal ones. They're pairing stripes with prints and some plaids thrown in for good measure. Add to this some wide-leg, high-waisted pants and you are starting to get the picture.

Soft and romantic is another look that continues to show up this season. This look includes ruffles and bows, lace and crochet. The fabrics for this look are both feminine and floaty. Keep other pieces low-key so that the romance can show through.

Modified men's wear is a favorite this season. Again, a pair of wide leg trousers gets this look started. Vests are perfect for this trend. Keep the colors pretty neutral and do a tighter top over a looser bottom. A crisp white shirt is the perfect compliment to this style. Move over men, women are stealing your look!

The Grecian-inspired look is coming on strong. This trend requires very drapey jersey fabrics that flow and fall easily. It is a very dramatic look that can really add some glamour. Metallic accessories and flat sandals are perfect compliments to this look.

Metallic is the finish du jour. Accessories, shoes, handbags and of course dresses can be seen in metallics all over the place. Be careful to do just a touch of this trend, as all over is too much. A pair of metallic flats have a way of dressing up even the most casual outfit.

Cropped is the cut of the season for jackets and tops. Layered over a longer top or tunic, gives you a long and lean line. These shorter jackets also look good over dresses.

The LWD or little white dress is making an appearance this season. This dress can bee seen in eyelet, chiffon or even jersey fabrics. The dress in general has made a huge splash this season.

Dresses are EVERYWHERE! Dresses over jeans and leggings or on their own can be seen at the beach and in the board room. Dress silhouettes are A line, empire, wrap and trapeze styles in both solid and floral prints. One of these is bound to flatter every figure type.

Trench coats are everywhere you look, in the magazines and in the village. The trench coat has gone from fashion staple to fashion statement. The trench can be spotted in many different colors and fabrics to give some pizzazz to this wardrobe must-have. If you're going to invest, go for a khaki trench in a classic double-breasted style. If you already own a trench coat, but want to update it, considered having it shortened right to the knee.

Headbands are the accessory of the season. This look is fresh and fun. You can pair several skinny headbands for a splash of color, or go with one wide headband. You can also use skinny scarves to make your own. This is a great look to camouflage your not perfectly coifed hair! A high-waisted belt is another accessory that defines spring 2007. It cinches in the waist and looks great with a blouson top and skinny pants.

Shoes this season are reason to celebrate. The wedge heel is making a statement. A wedge shoe is a great way to add some height, without having to visit your chiropractor. Wedges are easier on the back than a traditional heel and they are really comfortable! They look as good under jeans as they do with a frilly dress. Ballet flats are also showing up in every conceivable material. Suede, velvet, canvas, patent and leather are just some of the choices for this shoe. They look great with pants, skirts and of course, a dress.

It will be a fun season with lots of fashion options. No matter which trend speaks to you, there's a lot to work with this spring. Pick a few that suit you best, and make them your own!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter February, 2007

As temperatures start to warm a little (at least temporarily), spring cleaning will start to move to the top of our “To Do” lists.  I’d like to offer a few ideas for getting rid of the items you clean out of your closet.  In the spirit of giving and welcoming our new columnist Bill Somerville’s “Simple Gifts”, here are some suggestions for organizations that would love to get your cast-offs.

Wardrobe for Opportunity (website) is an organization I am delighted and proud to be associated with.  Wardrobe is an Oakland and Pleasant Hill based non-profit that helps its clients, both men and women, to dress for interviews and subsequent hiring.  Their mission statement reads “Wardrobe for Opportunity is a volunteer-based, nonprofit organization that provides professional clothing and career support to low-income jobseekers so they can secure employment and become economically self-sufficient.”  Every month I show up for three hours to help dress clients.  Each time I leave, I feel happy, grateful and appreciative of the experience and thankful for the dedicated staff at WFO.  WFO also offers its clients a program called “Pathways to Opportunity” as additional training and preparation for their new jobs.   WFO is hosting a breakfast on Friday, March 16, 2007 from 8 a.m. until 9:30 a.m. for donors, referral agencies and volunteers if you are interested in finding out more about Wardrobe for Opportunity.  I will be the keynote speaker, and will be talking about “de-mystifying business casual”.  All of the details can be found on their website.

A Miner Miracle (www.aminermiracle.org) is a San Francisco bases non-profit that also helps men & women dress for their entry or re-entry into the job market.  Miner Miracle has a retail store that is an additional source of revenue for this organization.  The shop is located at 899 Mission Street on the ground floor of the Mission & 5th St. garage right across from Bloomingdale’s.  In 1995, Kathy Miner founded A Miner Miracle after working with the Salvation Army on a similar pilot program.  A Miner Miracle also provides job skills workshops and additional education for its clients in order to prepare them for the current job market.

Dress for Success Worldwide (www.dressforsuccess.org) “is an international non-profit organization dedicated to improving the lives of women located in 78 cities across the U.S., Canada, the U.K. and New Zealand. The professional clothing, employment retention programs and ongoing support that we provide our clients symbolize our faith in every woman’s ability to be self-sufficient and successful in her career.”  Dress for Success just opened a San Francisco affiliate in 2006.  Dress for Success serves women only and also offers job skills training as well as professional clothing.  They will be opening a retail store, as soon as a suitable space is found.  Since its founding in New York City in 1997, Dress for Success has served 300,000 women around the world.

Each of these wonderful organizations has guidelines for donations, but generally, all clothing should be dry cleaned, on hangers and in good condition.  Business casual clothing is also accepted.  Don’t forget that these organizations also need belts, shoes, handbags, ties, scarves, briefcases, overcoats and raincoats.  Each of them can provide a tax receipt and lets you determine the value of the donation.  Check their websites for donation locations around the bay area.  Of course, monetary donations are always welcome and appreciated!  If you are looking for some way to “give back” this spring, consider one of these amazing organizations!

For the “packing challenged”…  If you stress about packing, weeks before a trip, join AICI (Assn. of Image Consultants Int’l, www.aici.org) for their Travel Express: Tour with Style program.  It is being held at Bloomingdale’s in San Francisco on Tuesday, March 20th, 2007 from 6:30 – 9 p.m.  The program will include spring trends, great luggage options, and current FAA regulations.  Hors d’oeuvres and refreshments will be served.  For tickets and information call Katherine Wurzburg at (650)949-3170.

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter January, 2007

If you take a look in anyone’s closet, the owner would no doubt be able to give you a short history of the majority of their clothing.  In almost every closet there will be several, what I like to call “expensive fashion mistakes”.  What exactly is an expensive fashion mistake you ask?  It’s the piece you bought, because you thought you couldn’t live without it.  You’ve come to learn it’s exactly the opposite, and it’s never seen the light of day.

First, it’s important to know why people (men, that includes you too) make these lapses in judgement so often.  I find there are several explanations for this common situation.  First, you bought it on impulse.  You didn’t really plan on buying it, but you got caught up in the moment and you did it.  This is sometimes the case when we are shopping with friends, and fashion mistakes just happen.

Next is the last minute fashion mistake.  You have an event to go to, perhaps it is work related for you or your spouse/partner.  You’ve had ample notice before the event, but just didn’t make time to look for the perfect ensemble.  This is the prime environment for fashion mistakes to happen.  We usually feel very stressed as the time of the event draws closer, and our decision making ability is not based on what fits the best and looks great, it is based on sheer desperation!  You can see why this in never the optimal frame of mind for shopping and why so many fashion mistakes thus occur.

Another scenario for fashion mistakes is the all too common vacation purchase.  You see a beautiful hand painted sarong that costs a king’s ransom.  It looks beautiful on, and fits right in with the island vibe of ________ (fill in the blank with an island paradise).  The problem here is that a hand painted sarong is not something you’ll wear very often in your everyday life, unless you are a tour guide for tropical getaways.  Men make this mistake quite often with Hawaiian shirts.  If the only chance you’ll have to wear it is the yearly “Hawaiian Party” then take a pass and buy one from Goodwill when you need it! 

The number one reason I hear from people about fashion mistakes, is the “it was on sale” excuse.  Let me be very clear here …just because something is on sale, does not mean it looks good on and fits you properly.  You are so much better off waiting until you find exactly what you want and are looking for, even if it means paying full price.  You will wear it more often and really get your money’s worth versus something you NEVER wear sitting in your closet collecting dust.  Enough said.

Now, let’s examine how you avoid making the above faux pas.  Always keep classic pieces in neutral colors in mind and know that you will always get the most wear out of these pieces.  These are the “investment” pieces that you will get tons of use from.  Spend more on these core pieces and less on the trendy garments that will only be worn for a season or two.

If you are considering a really amazing garment, that will make a big dent in your checkbook, consider using the 24 hour rule.  The 24 hour rule goes like this: if, after 24 hours, you are still obsessing over the garment, go back and buy it.  If your doubts about the garment intensify, forget about it and move on.  Most stores, both boutiques and large department stores, usually have a least a 24 hour hold policy.  This is precisely the amount of time you will need to decide if the clothing passes muster.

Make sure you always ask about the return policy.  Most small boutiques have somewhat more restrictive return policies than larger department stores.  I am not advocating for department stores, as some of the best finds are in smaller boutiques.  I am advocating being an informed consumer.  Make sure if you are uncertain about your purchase, you can at least return it for store credit.

The best solution for vacation purchasing, is to make sure that whatever you are contemplating, you wouldn’t be embarrassed to don in public, back “home”.  While vacationing in Puerto Vallarta a few years back I happened upon this wonderful “Zappateria” where they made the cutest hand- tooled sandals.  I bought a few pairs, and never regretted it because sandals are something I wear a lot in my “everyday” life.

My last suggestion for the fashion mistakes in your closet is to find a good place to consign it.  You may still be able to recoup some of your investment this way.  In the end, learn from those expensive fashion mistakes, and vow never to repeat them…at least until next season!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter December 2006

With Christmas just barely over, and trees still trimmed with holly, It’s time to turn our attention to the bargains that await us in the coming weeks. Everyone knows that the big department stores are full of marked down merchandise that needs to be sold to make room for the new spring fashions.  What lots of people don’t realize, is that the same is true of their favorite local boutique.  They also need to sell goods to make room for new arrivals.  As customers, we score big this time of year!

Here are a few of the many sales that are taking place in the coming weeks around our part of town.

One of my favorite local boutiques is Red Bird at 2938 Domingo Ave. in Berkeley (510)644-0294 (right near Rick & Ann’s).  Owner Karen Park does a great job of combining lots of different women’s clothing and accessory lines that really work together.  Red Bird’s sale starts December 27th and includes 40-50% off selected merchandise, and 25% off selected jewelry.

I was thrilled to find out that Red Bird has opened and outlet!  It is located just around the corner from the main store, behind Rick & Ann’s and Peet’s coffee.  They are open Thursday through Sunday only.  This is great news for those of us that love the main store.  The outlet telephone number is (510)848-5530.

Another great sale will be starting on January 2nd at twenty two shoes located at 5856 College Ave. in Rockridge (510)594-2201.  Owners/ designers Chris and Alexandra Silverman have a great selection of upscale shoes in their store that are perfect for those of us not interested in sky high heels.  The Silverman’s also design their own line of shoes and boots that are manufactured in Italy and carried by many other retailers including Gimme Shoes in S.F.  The entire fall collection of shoes, boots and handbags will be 50% off starting January 2nd. ..run, don’t walk to this great sale!

The folks at FIT, 5707 College Ave. (510)923-0784, are already in sale mode.  Their sale is in progress, with 40-50% off  selected merchandise.  They have Diane von Furstenberg dresses on sale along with wool suits, beaded slippers, handbags and casual stretch velvet jackets.  Owner Joyce Gardner will be adding items to the sale each week, and will include cashmere sweaters in the very near future.

Pimlico Place at 4135 Piedmont Ave. (510)655-7081 is also getting it’s sale on.   They have beautiful ornaments and Christmas related items on sale for 40% off.  Some of the special ornaments are imported from Switzerland.  Handmade and decorative pillows are 20% off, and beaded velvet handbags from Paris are 25% off.  These bags have that unmistakable “boho” feel to them.  Check out their designated sale area in the store, as new items are being added each and every week.

Nancy and Melissa at Utopia, 6466 Moraga Ave. in Montclair village will also be getting into the January sale spirit.  They will be putting coats, boots, sweaters, robes and the  designer Cari Borja’s line all on sale.  Call the store at (510)339-1002 for additional information, because they may add more to the list.

Serrahna will be hosting a store wide sale starting on January 5th.  They are located at 5303 College Ave. in Rockridge (510)654-2332.  Owner Andrea Serrahn, is embarking on another buying trip to India, and needs to make space for all her beautiful acquisitions.  She will be offering 25-75% off selected merchandise.  This will include coats, scarves, pants, some costume jewelry and selected purses.  Serrahna’s store hours will be 11-6, (instead of 7) Monday through Saturday and 12 -5 on Sundays, during the month of January.

Make sure to take the time to call your favorite fashion haunt and ask them if they’re having a sale.  You may be pleasantly surprised to find that the great jacket you were coveting last month, can now be yours for a song!

Calling all readers!!!  As the new year begins, I’d love to hear from all of you.  Please

e-mail me with your most difficult fashion /wardrobe conundrums.  I will try to answer your burning questions in future columns.  In the meantime, I wish all of you a very happy and prosperous 2007!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter November 2006

Does the prospect of holiday shopping leave you in a cold sweat?  Do the crowds in Union Square have you running for cover in the corner of the nearest café?  Is your mantra for the season more “Bah Humbug” than “Deck the Halls”?  If you have answered yes to any of the above questions, you can count yourself among the large group called “shopping phobics” or “shop-phoebes”.

For those of you who prefer to go shopping from the comfort of your own home, this one’s for you!  I understand your plight, especially since I make my living shopping for other people.  If you are not a natural shopper, the holidays only turn up the heat on an activity that is already up there with having a root canal.  If you prefer more “green” gifts, and want to save the environment, read on.  I have come up with the ultimate list of gifts; you never have to circle a crowded parking lot to purchase.

Personally, I love memberships.  Zoos, museums and science center memberships, all make wonderful gifts.  This is an especially valuable gift for families with children, or for the art lover.  They get to use it all year long, and each time, they will think of your generosity.  There are so many right here in our backyard:  The Oakland Zoo, Chabot Space and Science Center, and the Lawrence Hall of Science to name a few.  All can be purchased on-line with minimal effort!

Another favorite gift is tickets to the theater, symphony or ballet.  What is better than the gift of your time to take in a performance with an old friend, sibling, partner or grand child?   If there is a Broadway show coming to the area, getting tickets ahead gives the recipient something to look forward to.  Again, Berkeley Repertory Theater, Oakland Symphony and California Shakespeare Theater are good local options.

Magazine subscriptions are a fun gift to receive, for any age.  Does your friend love gardening, flower arranging or knitting?  There are many choices for hobbies or interests of all kinds.  For children, Ranger Rick, Highlights or American Girl is great magazines to give.  For the armchair quarterback, Sports Illustrated is a touchdown.  Log on to your favorite, and check one more name off your gift list.

Speaking of sports, tickets to a sporting event is a home run.  If professional is out of your budget, why not the Cal Bears, Stanford Cardinals, U.S.F. Dons or any other local college team?  We love taking our children to the Cal soccer games, both women’s and men’s.  It cost a total of $16, adults are $8 and children are free.  Shattuck Ave. is close to the stadium for lunch or dinner before/ after the game.

As a parent, there is no better gift for my children, than books.  I love to read, and so far, my children do too.  One of their favorite gifts is when their Aunt Sally sends them a gift card from Borders.  We put it away for a few months, and take it out when they are looking for good books, or I need a rainy day activity.  We pick the date and make an outing of it.  The kids really look forward to it.  We all come out of the store excited to get started on the books we chose.   Again, if done on-line, the recipient gets and e-mail notification.

For the teenagers on your list, the gift of music will always be appreciated.  An iTunes gift certificate is a sure fire hit with the younger set.  I could use some new music for my iPod.  Anyone who owns an MP3 player can appreciate this kind of gift.  Podcasts are also an option, and can be purchased the very same way. 

If budget is your biggest issue, vouchers or coupons for services are the way to go.  What parent wouldn’t appreciate a night of free babysitting?  What busy professional wouldn’t love a prepared meal delivered to their home, or a dry-cleaning pick-up or lawn mowing or grocery run or….you get the idea.  This gift cost nothing, but really means a lot.

In the end, if you find yourself with a few missing gifts, shop your local stores!  Montclair Village, Piedmont Ave. and College Ave. all have wonderful eclectic and independently owned businesses that need our patronage.  Most have complimentary gift wrapping, personal service and a lot of good cheer.  Before you know it, “Bah Humbug” just might turn into “Deck the Halls”

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter October 2006

AS A PERSONAL SHOPPER, one of the most widely asked questions I get is "Where do you start?" I explain that I start in the same place my clients start each and every morning ... their closet.

I come to every first appointment with my trusty rolling rack and a total absence of judgment.

Even I have fallen victim to the last-minute "I need a dress for that wedding tomorrow." or the "I need one more outfit for vacation" syndrome. Being in the business does not insulate me from the same problems all of you face. It is this compassion and identification I take with me to see every client, both male and female.

I read once that we wear 10 percent to 20 percent of what we have 80 percent to 90 percent of the time. Now, I'm not sure if that statistic is completely true, but it's probably not too far off. What that means to me is that we're not wearing the majority of what we have. So, how do we wear what we have, all of the time?

Before I come to a client's house, I give them some homework: to go through their closet with a critical eye. When is the last time you wore a miniskirt? If the answer is 10 years ago, get rid of it. Does anything in your closet have shoulder pads bigger than a house? Get rid of it, and fast; they're not coming back in style. Leisure suits, don't even think about it! By weeding out your closet first, we don't waste time on things that should have already been gone. The only caveat I have for this step, if something is of great quality or vintage grade, keep it. These treasures are meant to be kept and possibly handed down. I find that men have as hard a time as women getting rid of things. As in Bruce Springsteen's song, "Glory Days," they just can't let go of the past.

The best way to organize your closet is to have an upper and lower hanging rod. Tops, shirts and/or blouses go on top, and pants and/or skirts go on the bottom. Visually, it is much easier to see what you have if your closet is set up this way. Some people prefer to have outfits hung together. The only issue I have with this system is that you limit yourself. It doesn't allow you to think out of the box, and put things together in a new and different way. If you can fit it, a long hanging rod is ideal for longer jacket dresses and anything that doesn't fit on the other rods.

Once you have the two rods, I suggest sorting by weight and color. If you have extra closet space in another part of your house, it's even better if you can limit your closet to fall/winter clothes and then spring/summer clothes. Start with dark colors and go toward light, long sleeve to sleeveless, long pants to skirts. By doing this, you instill order and reason, so that you are not searching for that favorite camel cashmere sweater you love. It's right where you put it along with the other like-colored garments.

You should strive for a ratio of two to three tops for every bottom. People tend to notice what is on the top half of your body, because that is what's at eye level. Don't buy something you have no match for. Think in terms of "families" of clothing, where several pieces work together.

Another hard and fast rule is to get rid of what doesn't fit or is soiled or stained. Again, it is taking up physical space as well as giving you more to process each morning when you get dressed. I also have clients try some of their clothes on for me so that I can gauge their fit and functionality. Sometimes it takes an outsider to deliver the truth, and maybe an outfit you think looks good doesn't really enhance your figure. As we experience life, our style changes and our clothes are a reflection of that. Wear what fits and looks good.

Once I am gone, it is up to the client to keep up the good work. Organizing and editing your closet is an ongoing process. Each season is an opportunity to donate, dispose of, collect and consign what isn't working. This way, it gives you the opportunity to add a few great pieces that you can't wait to put on in the morning!

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter September 2006

Take a look at any fashion magazine this month, and you’re bound to utter a resounding HUH??? After viewing all of the couture shows on DVD this June, I had the very same reaction. Sitting there with a seasoned colleague, we both thought “how are we going to dress women when THIS is what the designers are showing?” Well, with the summer behind us, I have made peace with the current trends, and can even give you some suggestions on how the ‘real woman’ can incorporate them into her wardrobe.

The biggest trend of the season is clearly leggings and footless tights. They started to emerge this spring, and continue be the season’s most popular. For the uninitiated, leggings (and tights) were what we all wore in the 80’s. Remember Madonna in her footless tights during her “Like a Virgin” period? The difference between leggings and tights are the weight of the fabric. Leggings are usually made of cotton with lycra for stretch. Tights are a type of hosiery, and should be worn as such. The good news for most of us is that heavier tights (with foot in tact) in dark colors and subtle patterns are the rage, and are much more age appropriate for those of us who remember the 80’s. Under a dress or bubble skirt, leggings or tights can look fun, as long as the length of the skirt or dress is what you would wear without tights or leggings.

Another continuing trend is dresses. They are everywhere! Spring 2006 showed many dresses and thankfully, they are continuing to be big with no signs of slowing for spring 2007. The good news here is there are many different styles to choose from: The trapeze dress, the empire waist, the wrap dress, the list goes on. There are enough styles to suit most figures and tastes. Dresses are easy to wear, and look great for casual outings or dressed up with a pair of heels or boots.

Like it or not, the skinny or stovepipe jean is huge! This is very bad news for most of us that have a womanly figure, and not a shape that could be confused with a pre-pubescent boy. Don’t despair, if you feel like you want to try the trend there are a few options that would work. First, wear them under a dress. This is a forgiving look with the top part of the jean totally obscured by said dress!

Longer tunic tops are also a great look with this season’s skinny jean. Like a dress, it camouflages the area you want covered up. Tunics can also be worn with capri length pants and the gaucho pant as well. If you’re feeling confident you can go with a more form fitting style or a more A-line style for more coverage. Tunic tops can also be belted to give them a more refined look.

Plaids and tweeds seem to be making an appearance this fall. As a transplanted easterner, this was the quintessential autumn look. A lot of designers showed this on the runways. As long as the fabric is a lighter weight to match our Bay area climate, I think this looks great on a lot of women and men as well. Keep in mind that one plaid or tweed piece is enough at one time. Less is more in this instant.

Layering was a popular look at the fall shows. Although designers take it to the extreme, we don’t have to. Again, keep the layers light for our climate, and you’re halfway there. This can be done with sweaters, vests and tunics. The somber color palette this season makes layering a good opportunity to add a splash of color! A sweater over a dress is another way to wear this style.

Oversize and slouchy handbags are a good compliment to the skinny jean. It seems that we have come back to the handbag that holds everything but the kitchen sink. For those who really have to carry a lot of items, this trend is the way to do that. Be careful not to overstuff so that contents are spilling out. Your handbag shouldn’t be your home office, gym bag, and makeup bag combined. A well edited handbag is the way to go.

If all of this is still a bit confusing, come to Saks Fifth Avenue in Union Square on September 19th from 5-7 p.m. for a fashion show and program called “Mixed-up Glamour”. I am one of the 6 featured stylists that will help you interpret the fall fashions, and make sense of it all. Tickets are $60 (including hors d’oeuvres and refreshments) and can be purchased by calling (650)949-3170 or at the door, the evening of the event.

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter July 2006

As a personal shopper and wardrobe stylist, I always get asked the same question; “Where do YOU shop?”.  This question is harder to answer than you think, not because I don’t have a multitude of really great places to shop.  It is more about finding a great place and slowly discovering all of the gems held within.  So here is my first installment of “Maureen’s Merchants”.

Utopia, 6466 Moraga Ave. in Montclair village.  (510)339-1002, www.utopiamontclair.com  Utopia is the relative newcomer to Montclair village.  Mother and daughter team, Nancy Ekstrom and Melissa Munyer opened Utopia just a little over a year ago.  Nancy is a Montclair resident and Melissa hails from Sausalito with a PhD. in psychology to boot.  Nancy and Melissa make a great team with style to burn.  They try to carry lines that you won’t see in every other store or boutique. 

Considering they have only been open a year, Utopia is really creating a ‘buzz’.  They get a lot of their customers from word-of-mouth marketing and have built a lot of local loyalty.  Utopia’s target market is definitely the Montclair and Piedmont woman.  Melissa and Nancy carry a lot of local designer’s lines, and insist they try on every piece they sell.  That way, they can comment on a wide array of fit issues.  Utopia carries shoes from Italy and Brazil, handbags, hats and some one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry.  They carry singer Beyonces mother’s line called House of Dereon, and a line of great fitting jeans called Pure Color that were featured on Oprah.

Tootsie’s, 5525 College Ave. in Rockridge. (510)595-7272.  Carrie Bradshaws take note, if your opinion of the perfect day includes buying several pairs of cute shoes, then Tootsies is your place!  Tootsies carries over 200 styles of shoes, and at this time of year, that means SANDALS!  This is a veritable playground for the shoe-aholic.  Walk in and you are immediately transported into a kind of shoe high.  You’re not sure of what to try on first….your mouth is a little dry…you’re eyes looked a little glazed over…..you take a deep breath and start trying on.

Tootsies has also been open just over a year, and already has gained the reputation of being the place for sandals.  Tootsies also offers amazing spa pedicures.  Owner Liz Taylor also will schedule pedicure parties on Thursday and Friday nights or by appointment.  This is a great idea for a bachelorette party or shower. Once the polish is dry, you can pick out a trendy pair of sandals, most with a price tag less than a dinner out!

Serrahna, 5303 College Ave. in Rockridge, (510)654-2332, www.serrahna.com  Immediately upon entering Serrahna, you feel as if you have been transported to a far away place.  The colors are saturated and rich, and are candy for the eyes.  For owner and designer Andrea Serrahn, that’s exactly the way she wants you to feel.  She visits India several times a year to scout fabrics and check on the hand cut and hand sewn production..   Serrahna is that rare boutique where time seems to fly by.  After shopping there for what seems like a long time, as you head for the door your eye settles on something that sucks you right back in!

Serrahnas clothing is flowing and ethnic, but also fitted and stylish. Serrahn has taken the spirit of India’s native dress, and reinterpret it to fit today’s woman.  Serrahn and her staff are very skilled at putting their pieces together in a way that might not have occurred to you.  Whether you are looking for a top to go with jeans or an entire outfit, they are up to the task.  Serrahna is designed for the “real” woman, with “real” figures.

Serrahna also holds several fashion shows during the year so be sure to get on their mailing list.  Serrahna’s website is great, and you can order directly from it.  It also offers information on the craftsmen and women that are such an integral part of Serrahna’s look.  Andrea feels a real responsibility and has embarked on numerous goodwill projects, including raising money to buy a community sewing machine.

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter June 2006

Have you ever been on a train or plane and looked admiringly at those people that can get by with a small carry-on bag?  Haven't you wondered how they could manage with just that small little bag for a 3 week trip to Europe?  Did you ever puzzle over why it takes a Sherpa to transport your luggage?  You're probably asking yourself.... "what am I doing wrong?".
 
I have never been someone that could severely limit my luggage (just ask my husband/Sherpa).  I guess one could say it's an occupational hazard.  I would always think about all those beautiful outfits at home, languishing alone in my closet.  I have also fallen victim to dressing in the perfect ensemble, only to be shattered by the realization that the perfect bag for this outfit was left out.
 
Although I will never be part of the "carry-on elite", I do have many tried and true tips for the packing -challenged.
 
Think in terms of "outfits".  Do not throw in a lot of "orphans".  What I mean by this, is pack things that go together.  Do not include pieces that do not relate to the rest of your choices.  Some people choose to keep their clothing in either the brown (earth tones) or black (cool tones) families. 
 
Along these same lines, make sure every bottom has 2-3 tops.  Bottoms are generally less memorable than tops.  By including a few different tops for a denim skirt or cute capris, you have created 2-3 outfits instead of one.
 
Choose pieces that can perform "double duty".  An ethnic inspired tunic can be worn as a bathing suit cover up or over jeans for a city tour.  Zip off pants are also a good choice, as they can start out on a cool day and end up at the beach with the quick slip of the zipper.
 
Lightweight and wrinkle-free fabrics are a godsend for travelers.  These new fabrications are great for the little space they take up, as well as their good looks after spending hours rolled up in a suitcase.  Scala makes a great line of packable hats for keeping the sun off your face.  Remember to hang up garments upon arrival so they have time to breathe before wearing.  A good steam in the bathroom while you shower, also does wonders for all fabrics.
 
Don't underestimate the power of Denim.  Although this is no-no for a lot of power packers, I think it is a must have for most people.  A nice pair of jeans can be dressed up or down for both men and women.  They can be rolled up to a capri for daytime, and jeans are understood everywhere.  Denim almost never shows dirt, and can be in the lightest and stretchiest fabrication.   Denim is also one of the few pieces you will own that goes with almost everything.
 
T-shirt dressing is the way to go.  the basic tee is such a versatile piece, that more of them can only be better.  Layering them makes for a fashionable look, and they can be worn in many different combinations.  They also satisfy the "double duty" criteria, as they can be daytime/nighttime appropriate and worn over beachwear.  Get a little creative with the colors and you're there!
 
Flip-flops are a travelers best friend.  Footwear can be a very mystifying part of the packing process.  A good quality, nice looking pair of flip flops can be used in many different environments, and they're comfortable!  Again, they meet the "double duty" criteria on many levels.  A fashionable trainer, like those by diesel or sketchers, can be a good shoe for travel.  They are lightweight, and can be worn for many hours of sightseeing.  Remember to pack one pair of dressy sandals/shoes for a fancy night out at that 4- star restaurant.
 
A neutral colored cardigan can save the day (or night).  Lots of destinations can be chilly at night despite being hot and muggy during the day.  Plan for this to happen.  Again, layering can be a good strategy for cool evenings, and a cardigan or neutral colored wrap can solve the problem.  I also use a wrap on long plane rides, as they are nicer that the airline blankets.  Pashminas work well for this.  If you are going to bring a heavier weight jacket, wear it rather than packing it.
 
Think before you carry on.  Make sure whatever you bring as your carry on luggage, can be carried everywhere else.  If you like a backpack, bring that.  If you're headed to the beach use a lightweight, waterproof mesh bag to carry on.  Once you get to your destination, this bag will get lots of use.
 
Lastly, leave a little "wiggle" room.  Most of us come back from vacation with something new, even if they're souvenirs for loved ones.  Make sure you leave a little extra room to accommodate these.  You'd hate to pass up those gorgeous Tony Llama cowboy boots from the dude ranch, just because they don't fit in your luggage! 
 
Now that you are such an expert packer, I hope to see you rolling your not-too-large roller bag through some exotic airport.  Look for me, I'll be the one with the Sherpa...

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter May 2006

If you ask Abi McCannon and Alix Hadley where the fashion capitol of the world is they might answer… Oakland.  It’s their capitol anyway, and it’s where their live/work studio is located.  Both Alix (24) and Abi (25) are graduating seniors at The Academy of Art University, and their collections hit the runway on Wednesday night amid flashbulbs, paparazzi and rolling video cameras.

Abi McCannon hails from Iowa originally.  She transferred to The Academy from the University of Iowa, and she realizes she’s a long way from home.  Abi’s inspiration for her collection was Jazz from the 20’s through the 50’s.  Abi loves to work with the contradictions between feminine and masculine looks.  She used vintage handbags and shoes on the catwalk to enhance the period quality of her clothing.

Alix Hadley was born in Florida but has lived in both Virginia and Georgia.  She transferred from SCAD (the Savannah College of Art and Design), because Savannah didn’t have the benefits of a big city like San Francisco.  The concept for Alix’s collection was “Freedom Culture”.  She tried to incorporate elements of many different cultures into her creations.  Alix used antique kimono fabrics for linings, she attached sleeves with intricate beads, and used cashmere from 1940’s France.  She likes to use old and new, and finds her treasures at flea markets, auctions, estate sales and second hand shops.

Alix and Abi met their second year at the Academy, and have been friends and collaborators ever since.  Both women share a live/ work space in Oakland.  Their studio is one of the largest rooms in the space.  It is covered with fabric, a drafting table, sketches, irons, dress forms, and an industrial sewing machine.  It is a jumble of creative energy, and it’s where Abi and Alix do their best work.  Alix says “commuting time is sewing time, so a home studio really works for us”.  They both agree that having their own work space makes the process a little easier, although you would never characterize this process as ‘easy’.

In order to have your collection shown at the graduation show, you have to commit to a year of intensity and sometimes, heartbreak.  Being in the show starts with a concept rendered as sketches and honed to reflect the highest detail and workmanship.  After the sketches, patterns have to be drafted for each piece.  Draping comes next where you work all of the kinks out of your patterns and a prototype of sorts, made out of muslin (a thin unbleached cotton fabric), is crafted.  Every detail has to work before you are able to cut and sew the collection out of your chosen fabrics.  This process takes time and sheer determination, all for the glory of seeing your first official collection on the runway.  After visiting Alix and Abi’s studio and seeing some of their pieces, I have no doubt they both have a promising career in fashion design.  These are talented students, ready to take the leap into the uncertain world of fashion.

To further increase the stress level of these students, for the Wednesday night show, the men of Fashion were honored and given honorary doctorates by Elisa Stephens, the University’s president.  The honorees included the bad boy of fashion, British designer Alexander McQueen, CEO of Macy’s West, Robert Mettler, Wilkes Bashford, purveyor of fine menswear, and Christophe Girard, the Deputy Mayor of Paris and Director of Fashion Strategy of the LVMH Fashion Group. With this list of luminaries, no wonder the students were a bundle of nerves!

One of the many highlights of the evening was when it was announced that Abi’s collection was chosen to be shown in the windows of the Wilkes Bashford store in San Francisco.  This was a great honor for her, and a good start on her design career!  The show was held at Morgan Auditorium, 491 Post Street (at Mason) in San Francisco.  This is as close as many of us get to a true haute couture fashion show. 

as seen in The Montclarian and The Piedmonter April 2006

This question may appear to be a simple one, but ask any woman this, and you might get a glazed over look followed by a blank stare.  If you are like most of us, you might be a size 10 or 12 in a jean, a size 6 or 8 in a skirt, and perhaps even a 12 or 14 in a bathing suit.  What IS the deal? Why do we have so much trouble answering such a seemingly simple question?

Let me try and explain why this is such a mystery to most of us. In the world of women's clothing, each and every manufacturer has it’s own version of what constitutes a size range.  In most cases this is a very arbitrary exercise.  As the line is being developed, a fit model is used in order to draft the pattern.  Generally the fit model is a size 8, and all other sizes are based on this scale.  As you might imagine, each fit model is slightly different in her measurements, as each and every woman has slightly different proportions.  One season a manufacturer might have a fit model that is long waisted or short waisted, smaller through the hips or fuller in the thighs…well, you get the picture.  With different fit models each season, the fit varies from one season to the next.  You may fit into a 6 one season, and an 8 the next.  It’s totally confounding, and certainly difficult to navigate, especially when trying to figure it all out under the glare of fluorescent lights in an overheated fitting room!

You also may have noticed that despite the fact that we are getting older and the population is getting larger, your size may not be that different from 10 or 15 years ago.  How is this possible, you may wonder?  Another dirty little secret of the clothing industry is what is referred to as ‘vanity sizing’.  This is where the line is designed larger and fuller than a traditional Missy size scale.  Why?  So that we feel better about ourselves for still fitting into that size 10 or 12 and not a 14!  Some manufacturers prey on our fragile self esteem and desire to be smaller than we truly are.  Are you starting to get the picture?

Now, let’s take a trip across the pond to Europe.   Much like our obsession with large portions compared to our European neighbors, our sizing is much different also.  European sizing is much closer to a traditional sizing scale.  Although you may see numbers in the 30's and 40's on a European garment, there is an American counterpart.  The issue comes to light when you try to translate your American size into another language.  Go into any boutique that carries Italian, French or English designers, and you will no doubt be surprised at what you see. 

European sizing is MUCH smaller that we are accustomed to.  If you fit into an 10 here, you will definitely be in a 12 or 14 in a French designer line.  Retailer H&M, (due to open in Walnut Creek this May...more on that next time) fits much smaller than it’s American cheap/chic counterparts.  I always warn clients not to be too shocked when they are not getting into what they feel is their true size in a store like H&M.

It's an understatement to say they every line fits differently.  What sometimes is hard to understand is why the Men's clothing lines have such a seamless sizing structure.  Men’s clothes sizes are all based on measurements.  Your waist measures either a 34, 36, 38, etc.  You will never fit in a 34 if you are really a 38.  The inseam or pant length is measured also, so you are a 32, 33, 34, etc.  A man with a 32”inseam will never look good in a pant with a 30” inseam.  It will look ridiculously short and people will wonder how he could have left the house.  Men's dress shirts are also subject to these measurements; the neck and the sleeve length.  It all sounds so civilized, doesn't it?  There are times that a male client doesn't even have to be with me in order for me shop for their clothes.  The real difference is that 90-100% of my choices fit!!!  Shopping for men can be very quick and easy compared with women. 

Why do I tell you all of this???  Should we just throw up our hands and decide that we will no longer strive to look good and stick with our old outdated clothes?  Certainly NOT!  What I am about to suggest may be shocking at first, but I really think you will get used to it in the long run.

What I tell all my clients is......YOUR SIZE IS WHAT FITS YOU!  Get it out of your head that you SHOULD be a certain size. You are what you are, and that's the perfect size for you.  If it makes you feel better, take a scissor to all of the little size tags at the back of your garments.  Cut them off, throw them out and never think about them again!  Size, like age, is just a number, it's a starting point.  If a size 12 doesn't fit, try a size 14 for goodness sake! 

Refuse to be categorized, and put into a box.  Be happy in the body you're in, and the confidence you project will more than make-up for the extra 5 lbs. you think you need to ditch.  Once you're wiped that look of pure shock off your face, give it some thought ...it does make sense.